Louisiana citrus problems and November gardening

By Allen Hogan

We are moving into the last days of autumn, when things usually get drab and dull, as far as the weather is concerned. This is not normally the time of year that we think of planting vegetables.
While it might not be the optimum time of year, there are still opportunities for certain vegetables that may be started before winter sets in. Orange trees have had a rough time this summer and fall and are showing the results.

Citrus Harvest and Problems – We are into full swing with home orchard citrus harvest and I am receiving many calls about this popular class of fruit.
Unfortunately, most of these problems were caused earlier in the season. It is too late to do anything about them now.
I’ll try to explain what happened to cause these situations. We had good spring weather for citrus. As a result, most trees bloomed and set many fruit. As we went into June, a severe drought set in.

With little available soil moisture, the fruit didn’t fill to its potential. It began to rain in August and continued to rain heavily through October. This fluctuation in moisture caused many fruit to split. After the skin split, the flesh would rot due to invasion from bacteria. Certain insects also invaded the split fruit.

As these rains continued into November, the maturity of some fruit was delayed. Many complain that they aren’t sweet, even though the skin color is yellow. With fruit maturity comes the development of sugars and “sweetness”. Abundant soil moisture and warm temperatures this fall has slowed maturity. Your only course is to wait. Cooler weather will hasten maturity. Be patient. It may be December or even near Christmas before your oranges are as sweet as you like. The only way to know is to periodically test them, regardless of the skin color.

Many calls concern insect injury to the fruit. Scale insects, mealy bugs and spider mites cause sooty mold to form on the fruit. This will often lead to a staining of red or black on the fruit surface. The stain is already there and can’t be removed. Fortunately, it usually only affects the appearance.

The fruit quality is not harmed by the stain. Regular applications of an ultra fine oil emulsion spray would have prevented the plant juice feeding insects and therefore prevented the staining. Remember this for next season. Follow a regular spray schedule beginning after the blooms fall next spring. You have to prevent the insect or live with its damage.

Stinkbugs and plant bugs are another factor. They feed directly on the juices in the mature fruit. Their feeding can directly reduce fruit quality. It can also introduce bacteria and fungi that cause the fruit to spoil while still on the tree. These insects aren’t easy to control. You have to scout your citrus trees regularly as the fruit matures and take control measures before the insect population builds up.

Planting Vegetables – Greens (mustard and turnips) can be planted anytime in the winter in our climate. The short day length will make for slower growth, but our soils are still warm enough for good germination. Thin mustard and turnip plants to a 3 to 4 inch-spacing to allow for larger leaf development. Planting a “fresh” green patch every few weeks is a good way to insure tender greens all winter long.

Spinach is not a widely grown vegetable in our area. But, it requires little more attention than mustard. Select a sandy or well drained site for spinach planting.
Spinach produces best at a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Apply 4 to 5 pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 feet of row about 10 to 14 days before planting. You may side dress with 1 pound of ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) per 100 feet of row about one month after seeding.

This additional nitrogen fertilizer will keep the spinach growing rapidly and produce more tender, higher quality leaves. Plant seeds about ½ inch deep, and thin plants to a 1 to 3 inch spacing in the row.
Keep the soil moist until the seeds have germinated. Some suggested varieties of spinach include: Samish, Bloomsdale

Long Standing, Melody, Tyee, Seven, Shookum and Olympia.

Cabbage and broccoli can be transplanted in late November. Growth will be slower than those planted in September, but they can provide spring produce. Keep an eye out for caterpillars and control them with BT material.

Shallots are another vegetable that can be transplanted all winter long. When you harvest, replant one shallot per bunch. They will multiply in a few weeks. If you want shallots with large bulbs, those transplanted now through December usually produce the best. Bulbs can be harvested next spring and stored for seed or used for seasoning in a dried state.

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